Just like we make natural dye concoction from scratch, Cinta Bumi Artisans was started the same. Along the journey, aligned support keeps arriving. There are people, places, energies, ideas, and timeliness that have contributed to our path in the past ten years.
We celebrate our circle of women everyday, and today, it has just become very, very special. No more words. Here are women who have made Cinta Bumi Artisans continue to flow and grow deeper, and things you may have not known about them before.
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Novieta Tourisia
Creatress & Lead Artist
Always an ally to plants since her childhood, Novi's relationship with plant dyes continue to evolve naturally. Born to Minangkabau and Javanese roots, she learned that some of her maternal great grandmothers were songket weavers and dyers. She studied and worked in tourism and hospitality for a decade until reconnecting with her ancestral roots and embarked her journey in artisanal craftswoman-ship. In 2015, Cinta Bumi Artisans was born.
What's your best memory of learning natural dyes?
Ten years ago when I was pregnant with my daughter. The 2.5sqm kitchen of my old loft was a lab. I pounded turmeric, boiled avocado pits, and peeled dragonfruit skins (which of course didn't work), all for dyeing baby clothes. I tried working with many plants around me. Plenty of unsuccessful attempts, but so much fun and learned a lot. I also cherished my journey as the student to barkcloth artisans in Bada Valley and learned the traditional barkcloth-dyeing with plants and mud.
Which dye plants are your greatest teachers and why?
Teak, both the leaves and flowers, for their kindness in giving vibrancy and ability to open the heartgate. Sappanwood, because they're so sensitive, and at the same time carrying medicine and strength when we understand how to co-create with them. And definitely Indigo, for their poetic way of reminding me the meaning of transformation and depth. Some said indigo is like a high-maintenance person, I'd rather see indigo as someone who boldly stands for self-care, healthy boundary, and mastery.
You once said that art and plants are allies in your healing journey. Can you share more?
I'm a survivor of domestic and sexual abuse; it happened for many years when I was a child. Like how most survivors did, my lips were sealed, I had to shut down and pledge to never talk about it for the sake of everyone around me. I got sick a lot, of course. So, writing poems and short stories as well as painting about my experiences were how I channeled my emotions - grief, anger, unworthiness, you name it. And plants have always been there for me through thick and thin.
Way before natural dye became integral in my life, my connection with plants existed through food, art, and the wholeness that I felt when I was among them -- you know, like the way in Mary Oliver's When I Am Among the Trees. Later in life, I learned about jamu and flower essence, and I've worked with some flowers like achiote (for abusive trauma healing) and native lassiandra (gentle care for feminine wound) to support me while doing my innerwork. I realized that healing is not linear, but I believe each of us carry a blueprint and wisdom in the journey of coming home, and I found plants and art are my two greatest allies.
As leader, what's your biggest lesson in managing the studio in the past year?
The art of mastering boundaries. Sounds heavy -- and yes it was, but I have significantly seen and felt how nourishing it is. Focus on services and creations that we knew we're good at. Dismiss external noises and instant trends. And the courage to say no to what are not aligned or relevant with our values.
What are you currently working on in relation to textile art and natural dyeing?
Writing a book, brewing an online course, and preparing a collaborative exhibition.
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Sri Ratna Mbaresi
Operations Manager & Natural Dye Artisan
Cici's leadership, peacemaking spirit, and her love for craftswomanship simply made her role as our Operations Manager flow eloquently. A native Posonese (Central Sulawesi), her experience as grassroot community activist included facilitating mobile libraries in rural villages, assisting women and children survivors of domestic violence, and organizing community events. She defined her path at Cinta Bumi Artisans as one peaceful, grounded, safe space, and "a place where I reconnected with nature and remembered to love and take care of myself".
Please tell us about your favorite natural dye technique and what you feel about it.
I love ecoprint and immersion dye. Since the first time I learned about them over six years ago, they've changed my life. Not only they made my world a lot more colorful, but also transformed my relationship with nature, especially plants.
If you must choose only one natural dye tool or equipment, what would it be?
Dye pot, for sure!
What craft project that keeps inspiring you?
Definitely book-binding! When I stitch a journal, I always visualize people who'd adopt them, how it would be a part of their journey and creative process. A space they get to pour their heart and write down meaningful things in their lives.
What craftswomanship skill would you like to deepen and understand more?
Mastering the process of making barkcloth, of course! It's a part of my heritage. (Cici's maternal grandmother was a barkcloth artisan.)
How did your previous experience influence you in the world of craftswomanship?
As a violence survivor, I had to deal with reality of living in a tough patriarchal society where there was no place for me as a woman to grow and be my true self unless I dared myself to do it anyway despite what others said. So many women in the place where I came from are skillful and talented but they're trapped within the norms which mostly created disadvantages for them. Though I received criticism and doubts from my family at first, I was blessed to be able to stand up for myself and what I believe in. Craftswomanship has become one of the greatest supports in my spiritual journey. It also has opened my eyes and heart to see there's an artist inside every person, unexceptionally myself, no matter what history they carried within.
What do you think is the most crucial thing that Indonesian women artisans need to learn?
The skills and knowledge of managing system and business to enable women artisans sustaining their creative process, knowing that many have been taken for granted by irresponsible and unethical people who only care for their glory and profit without considering the impact to the artisans.
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Hanna Maria R. Sihombing
Craftsmanship & Design Manager
Hanna's love for textiles and natural dye is unquestionable. She's a natural when it comes to art - from playing music instrument, dancing, to painting and making embroidery. Her thesis and final project at her university in Bandung integrated batik with ecoprint on barkcloth. Beside leading her role at Cinta Bumi Artisans, she's currently researching her fascinating ancestral textiles, the Ulos (Batak Toba) and Bentenan (North Sulawesi).
What are you currently exploring with textile and natural dyeing?
Mordant painting and ecoprinting.
What's the greatest lesson you found that natural dye teach you?
As a girl who grew up in the city, natural dyes constantly amazed me and keep showing me how giving nature is. Not only through our food but our clothes, too. They teach me to be patient and slow in the world that praises hustle and speed.
What are your three favorite dye plants?
Ceriops, because they're my favorite color and they give me bold vibes. Sappanwood, they're relatively easy but can be challenging at times. Marigold, as they give me sunshine in my life.
What inspire you the most when creating?
Nature obviously. Colors, too. And the sun ray!
How do you see women artisans role in artisanship?
I think women play the most important roles. We create, nurture, and give birth to ideas. But most people don't see it, I think because it's the habit, or the stereotype that goes like "well, it's the women's job", so it makes the value a lot less.
As a textile craft graduate, what's one thing you think that needs to be improved in textile craft education in Indonesia?
Well, because of the pandemic, it made my experience with craft studies (at university) much lower than I expected. But I would love to see more of the wastra Indonesia being introduced, explored, and studied in comprehensive way in textile craft schools.
Do you find it challenging in your daily flow as an artist and natural dyer?
Sometimes I'm in the zone, sometimes I'm out. Art block is real, but what's more real is when you know your craft actually light you up every single day and never give up on you!
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Ibu Sudi
Partnering Seamstress
Ibu Sudi, how long have you become a seamstress? Can you tell us about your learning process?
I've practiced sewing for almost forty years now, started since I was on the fifth grade, first by watching my aunt who was a seamstress working at home. When I was older, I helped her taking care of orders. In 2006, I opened my own business, when my eldest child was 6 years old.
As a seamstress, mother and wife, how do you manage time and energy between domestic life and work?
I shared domestic responsibilities with my husband. When I work, he takes care of the house and the kids. Otherwise it would've not been possible to get any work done.
Ibu, we've worked as collaborators for over seven years now, and we've cherished that so much. We're curious, what's the easiest project and the most difficult one so far?
The easiest is of course sewing things like scarves and table runners. The hardest one was sewing certain types of dress.
What's been challenging for your practice and how do you overcome the issue?
My recent health condition with my spine due to long-hours of sitting for sewing. There was a phase when I couldn't sew at all. So I manage to make movement in between sessions, remind myself to not sit too long.
What do you feel grateful the most about being a woman seamstress?
My ability and resilience in caring for myself and the family. My husband doesn't work anymore, so for many years I've become the provider for the family. I'm grateful that I could send my three kids to school and have got the education that they need, the two older ones have graduated uni, and the youngest is in junior high school. I also share my earnings with the big family and able to employ some neighboring housewives so that they can make a living, too.
Is there any big dream or plan in your business that you'd like to go for?
Honestly, no. With what I've been blessed with, and for being able to do my work and take care of my family and me, I feel enough about my life.
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Ibu Utari
Partnering Seamstress
When did you start to sew?
I started sewing four years ago.
Can you share about your learning process?
It was during the pandemic, between 2020 and 2021. At that time, a friend of mine invited me to join a free workshop program given to women in my village. We were trained twice a week, a day for sewing and a day for knitting. It took me around three months to finally be able to sew, and I've enjoyed it.
What do you find most interesting about the project that you've sewn with us, ibu?
The hand-rolled stitch scarves. Because of it, I also learned sewing the very soft ones like silks, they look fragile but actually strong.
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Ibu Mentik
Partnering Seamstress
Hi, Ibu. Can you tell us about your journey as a seamstress?
I think it's been over 30 years! At first I worked for some garment companies for years, before I finally opened my workshop in 2002 and I've stayed here until now.
Did your family support you when you started the business?
Oh, not at all! No one supported me, I had to find my way to make this happened. To start my workshop and bought some sewing machines, I borrowed some money from the village cooperative, and sold my valuables like my gold bracelet. My business was entirely self-started.
Is the workspace your house as well?
It's not anymore, but it used to be! I slept on the floor mattress. Took some river water for cooking, because it was still clean. I witnessed constant change of this village for 23 years. There were no hotels, restaurants, or any big buildings. Rice fields were all around this space.
You've become our amazing collaborator for almost five years now. Is there any of our projects that you think is challenging, and what's the one you like the most?
I think they're quite easy to work on! The clothes and bags are not hard to deal with. I simply like sewing pants and tops. I enjoy that I get to work on women's attires (for Cinta Bumi Artisans), because most other projects that I do are men's clothing.
Any hope or dream that you want to come true?
I love what I do! So as long as I can work with my sewing gears, I'm good, I feel good! I don't overthink, I like things simple and I feel that I'm enough.
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Barkcloth Artisans Collective of the Bada Valley
Topobéa (barkcloth artisans) of the Bada Valley indigenous community. They're our beloved teachers, collaborators, and the ones we really look up to. True heritage guardians who constantly empower us. The ones who not only have made things possible, but most importantly, the ones who inspired Cinta Bumi Artisans to exist.
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"Where there is a woman, there is magic."
Ntozake Shange